CUT THE FAUX DREADS OFF

Despite his success as a designer he would get into some controversy for culturally appropriating dreadlocks, a historically black hairstyle, in his Spring/Summer 2017 collection. Marc Jacobs presented 52 looks that consisted majority of white models, about 10 people of color, and maybe 5 or so black models (I counted), in pastel candy colored dreadlocks. It was said that this collection was his interpretation of playful grungy streetwear and that the dreadlocks was inspired by club kids, rave culture, and 1980s Boy George.

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I can't pinpoint a specific image that started the controversy (like my Gucci post). Different images of Marc Jacobs models in dreadlocks would circulate the internet and be put on Vogue. But all of them are equally problematic. I would argue the whole collection is a visual artifact that will go down in in history of how fashion continues to promote cultural appropriation. But I can pinpoint a  screenshot/comment pictured below that was made on Instagram by Marc Jacobs himself. The controversy would heighten because he actually responded to the criticism and attempted to rebuttal it on social media. The Shade Room, a pop culture instagram account, would use his response against him as permanent evidence of how designers think cultural appropriation is okay in our political climate. The screenshot itself (below) would act as headlines in the media from Times, TeenVogue, CNN, and NY times gaining a lot of attention to call him out. The interaction is very telling of how the visual culture around high fashion is no longer reserved for high end clientele. Since it's shown, promoted, and sold online people are able to hold these brands accountable with their own critique. 

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Before we get into the dissecting Marc Jacob's screenshotted comment. I would like to discuss the history of policing black hairstyles in the modern day that will help readers understand this cultural appropriation offense. American society has a love/ hate relationship with black hair. Some people are fascinated and feel the need to touch black people's curls and hairstyles without consent. Some are outraged by their natural hair and locs for not "following rules" or being too "distracting". Some non black people love appropriating black hairstyles without learning the history.

 

The policing of black hair is always a topic of conversation. Here are some of the many examples: 

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• U.S. supreme court ruled that it's legal to ban dreadlocks in the workplace

• T.V. host Giuliana Rancic publicly humiliated actress Zendaya's dreadlocks by saying it looked like it smelled of patchouli and weed

• High school wrestler Andrew Johnson was forced to cut his dreadlocks or forfeit his match

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I suggest reading this article, "Times Black Girls Were Suspended For Their Hairstyles" by Marquaysha Battle (Click). It does more justice of recording different accounts of black women being discriminated against due to their hair. 

 

Black people are a constant site for racism. Systematic racism in America has oppressed black people ever since slavery and the pattern continues today. Regardless of what they do or say, they are constantly being treated unfairly and their hair included.

 

Washington Post Columnist Kevin Blackistone put it concisely about the history of hair in America, "It was the manifestation of decades of racial desensitization. It is a historical lack of respect for people of color — for whom hair style is a particularly significant part of culture and history — in promotion of norms decided upon by a majority population."

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Even though one may assume hair is trivial (like Marc Jacobs), it's not. Hair is a site for racist discrimination to be perpetuated by many institutions from school, sports, and the work place. This is a tactic to control black people. Culturally, many black women have expressed from a young age they've been taught to assimilate to the universally imposed Eurocentric beauty standards of straight hair. Time's writer Areva Martin, a black woman, states, "In high school, I began using chemical products that guaranteed to relax my roots and give me the flowing, shiny hair that rivaled the white women I saw in glamorous shampoo ads." Many black people unfortunately have fallen victim to internalized racism of feeling the need to change or alter their curl pattern in order to fit in (that's why black people or POC straightening their hair isn't offensive because they are assimilating without choice). It's a constant battle of either conforming to a beauty standard that isn't in their favor or be natural and get criticized for it. To add another racist tactic that's contradictory, outsiders of this marginalized group will discriminate against black hair but also appropriate that same black hairstyle to rebrand it as a stylistic choice without carrying the same stigma. That is exactly what Marc Jacobs did with the dreadlocks and what I'll be discussing further.
 

To make matters even worse, the dreadlocks were majorly displayed on white models. The circulated images

online promotes the history of white people appropriating another culture and using it to fit their own agenda (see this article about halloween costumes). White people are notorious for taking another culture as a fashion statement and because of their race they hold white privilege to be protected from any systematic discrimination. Unlike when the the rightful owner wears it (for example: Coachella with Native American headdresses, bindis, cornrows, dashiki).  It's not okay to adopt a culture for a day as a trend and not understand the ins and out of the identity embedded in it. When white or non-black people wear dreadlocks they are not as nearly penalized for it. One shouldn't be able to pick and choose what cultural aspect they get to adopt and not suffer the same consequences. 

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Now back to Marc Jacobs comment. By him culturally appropriating dreadlocks, it means as a brand they ignored all the discourse around why it's deemed offensive. From the book, Practices of Looking (2003), it defines cultural appropriation as, "To appropriate is, in essence, to steal. Cultural appropriation is the process of 'borrowing' and changing the meaning of cultural products, slogans, images, or elements of fashion" (59). Marc Jacobs essentially avoided acknowledging dreadlocks is rooted in black culture in his response (above). He even tried to divert the blame on women of color by saying they're culture vultures too which is very revealing as to how fashion brands don't value inclusivity but rather blame others. He then employed the colorblind ideology in order to be "progressive" even though it's proven that seeing race is essential to understanding different experiences. The circulated and reported screenshotted image explains  white privilege as a white designer very well. He is avoiding the political climate in relation to black people and doesn't want to be held accountable for his fashion choices. Even if his inspiration is actually not from black culture and is rave culture, it still doesn't negate the fact he could've chosen a different hairstyle that wasn't associated so closely to black culture and still maintain the same grunge aesthetic.

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People will argue dreadlocks are found in various cultures from India to Australia and that it's not just exclusive to black people, which is true. But in relation to America, black people popularized the hairstyle and have to live with the whole baggage that comes with it. So, when a marginalized group tells you something is offensive to them with credible reasoning, listen. Marc Jacobs took into consideration of the backlash and would later apologize for the hairstyle in a Instagram post where he acknowledges his faults and ignorance. 

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Respect the history of ALL black hairstyles.